August 21, 2012 at 1:50 pm #257236
I have a nest of rats in my shed. The shed doesn’t have a floor (just dirt) so I can’t seal the holes. I do not keep food in there but I see they gather fruit from neighbours trees and drag them into my shed.
If I set traps in the shed will new rats keep coming in through underground tunnels?
How will I know if they are all cleared?
If I set traps and they die without using poison, is it safe to give the bodies to chickens, or are they likely diseased?
If I put a thick layer of gravel in the bottom of the shed can the rats easily get through it? I’m not sure that I want to pay $500 for concrete when I have other budget items of higher priority.
I am considering converting the old shed into a duck house and don’t want any eggs or ducklings being harmed.August 22, 2012 at 1:10 am #527199AndreKeymaster
I think the thick gravel layer could work .. just guessing though.
Get a cat? Get a ferret … 🙂
Also, I would think the chooks is a good idea, and would be safe enough. You might find that ‘country’ rats aren’t as disease-ridden (potentially) as city rats (as they can frequent sewers more readily?) .. again.. just a guess.
😉August 22, 2012 at 2:29 am #527200jaydatooMember
Unfortunately I doubt gravel would deter them. They are shifty and can get in small spots. We currently have a problem in one of our sheds. It is a really well built shed with concrete floor. Holes are filled but they are still managing to get in. A month or so ago we bought a kitten. Hopefully she will be deterrent enough when she grows a bit bigger.August 22, 2012 at 10:13 am #527201AnonymousGuest
nothing but placing some solid type baits around tied in place with wire, so they don’t cart it off to the nest and store it. we sue topcat and another from the produce agency all work we do favour topcat. ratsack types from the supermarket are like dessert for them.
they need a heavy hand it they get into the ceiling or walls of your home they have been known to start fires, as the first thing they do is chew electrical wire insulation. need zero tollerance.
lenAugust 22, 2012 at 2:31 pm #527202SnagsMember
hope this helpsAugust 22, 2012 at 5:12 pm #527203
I’ve got two cats but they’re indoor only pedigrees. It’s a shame as they are very good at catching the flies in the house, they would be great at catching rodents. Alas I do not want an outside cat as then s/he would be a threat to ducklings.
Thanks for that link with the bucket of water idea snags, that’s a good one! I like the fact that there’s no poison involved.
I bought a fairly expensive mouse killing device yesterday and thought if it worked well I’d consider upgrading to the rat version. Well I checked on it this morning and I have my first dead mouse. Unlike that bucket of water idea though this trap only does one at a time so it’s not so efficient. It works by stretching a small but thick rubber band over a trigger, and then when the mouse sets it off the rubber band ends up around the mouse’s neck and the dead mouse is shot out of the thing like a cannon! Pretty crazy, but keeps the device clean. The rat version costs $30 though and also you have to buy proprietary band refills so I might give the bucket a go first.August 23, 2012 at 12:27 pm #527204FarmboyMember
Jusy a couple of hints if you are interested.
Instead of gravel (coarser stone), you may like to use crusher dust (fine stone with plenty of stone dust), prior to spreading, mix a couple of bags of cement powder through it and then spread it around and level off as you normally would. over time the cement powder will go hard, effecting a pad not the disimilar to a concrete slab.
With the little green bands for your trap – they are actually marking bands ofr docking and castrating purposes. you get these by the packet or box ranging from 100 bands to 5000 bands, off Ebay for a fraction of the cost of buying the proprietary bands at the hardware store.
Just a thought 🙂August 23, 2012 at 1:19 pm #527205
Thanks farmboy, those are both excellent suggestions!
I actually quite like the little ‘cannon’ mouse trap, because the trap itself stays clean, so I might buy more of those little rings as you suggest to use the trap as an occasional use thing. I’ll try Snag’s link the bucket idea for the rats in the shed, and then when there are not so many drowning rats anymore I’ll do as you suggest with stone dust and cement powder.
I gave the dead mouse to my chickens today since I figured that rodents are eaten even by humans in some countries so I shouldn’t be so squeamish. Three of them stared at it in confusion until the last one came along and picked it up and ran off with it. They put up chase until they all realized that they had no idea what it was, and only the girl who had it was prepared to do anything with it! She’s been running around with it ever since. Perhaps not the easiest thing to eat.August 23, 2012 at 3:05 pm #527206VickieMember
We found these huge easy rat traps in bunnings, they had bait in them already but the rats didnt like that bait. We caught 2 huge rats (think possum size :sick: ) from our house using ravioli in the traps 😆 good luck. Watching a chook run around with a mouse in it’s beak would crack me up.August 24, 2012 at 12:55 pm #527207
Oh :sick: Possum sized wouldn’t drown in the bucket. I’d better do a combo. I had no idea they got that big!August 24, 2012 at 4:34 pm #527208AnonymousGuest
yep down side of using live traps, you then have to do the deed hey? or there is no gain like in controlling them. then we found you may catch a couple or so in the traps but the others soon learn not to go there, so for every 2 caught how many remain uncaught?
need to treat them with zero tolerance.
lenAugust 24, 2012 at 4:56 pm #527209VickieMember
Len, i have no choice but to use traps, we have had them get stuck in the walls after eating baits and die, rot. The smell is the worst. :sick: :sick: :sick: Much better to kill them and be able to get them out.August 24, 2012 at 9:58 pm #527210
I’m not sure if it’s true or not but this one that shoots out the little bands advertises that rats don’t avoid it after a few kills. I think that because the rat is shot out of it, if the other rats didn’t watch him go in they wouldn’t know what was the cause of death upon seeing his body. Not like a trap where he’s stuck to the trap and it’s obvious.August 26, 2012 at 12:23 am #527211BlueWrenMember
Whatever you do you need to kill LOTS of rats!! They are very,very, smart – although seeing their bothers and sisters and other rellies flying through the air should be a new experience for them.
I left it too late as I was opposed to baits for the sake of native rats , and for other creatures that might eat the poisoned rats.I tried greasy poles etc , spring traps – caught two before they twigged and SOMEHOW discovered a way to eat the bait without springing the traps.
I finished up with a plague, dozens of rats ,nests under the compost heap and two big nests up in the macadamia tree above the chook pen.This brought Eastern Brown snakes which was becoming downright dangerous when I tended to the chooks, collected eggs etc.I was advised – I think by Bushy on here – that the brand Racumin is less harmful to another creature that might eat a poisoned rat than the other brands.So far I have spent over $100 on baits, and this will have to continue.
There are still some rats around and I keep putting baits out every few weeks ,and they go.
Len, why is it a problem if rats take baits to their nests? I would consider that an advantage?
Somewhere on here I have a description of my chooks squabbling over a LIVE mouse that ran through their pen – they were incredibly quick! Two had a tug of war until it split …….and the whole eight chooks were in a chasing frenzy.The rooster just stood and watched …..”Really, girls!”August 26, 2012 at 12:54 pm #527212
BW, how do you know you still have rats, do you see them? I read not to use poison if they’re in the attic as they die in the walls and need to be cut out, but I don’t think I have any in the house. Just don’t want a chook to eat a poisoned one obviously.
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