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Experts – HELP how to trim allowance?

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  • #248631
    darls
    Member

    I am making my daughter a tunic dress atm and I am stuck with this one-sentence instruction! And googling hasn’t helped!

    “Trim allowance on neck edge to 3/8″ (1cm) wide.”

    What does this mean and what am I supposed to do???

    I am about to put the bias strip around the edge of neck but am not sure what trick I need to know.

    The similar instruction repeated further in steps:

    “Trim allowances on armhole edges to 3/8″ (1cm) wide.”

    Sighs… I NEED pictures to guide me better than written instructions… :shrug:

    Thanks in advance! :hug:

    #418691
    Michelle-sm
    Member

    You need to trim the seam allowance to 3/8″ so that the bias strip will cover the seam/edge properly.

    Sorry can’t help with pics.:shrug:

    #418692
    Noodle
    Member

    Hmm well I’m no expert, but I think it means trim the edge of the material to be 1cm from the seam.

    (You may have sewn 1.5cm in from the edge and just need to reduce the amount of extra fabric a tad).

    The allowance is the bit between the seam and the cut edge of fabric.

    #418693
    darls
    Member

    How do I do that when I haven’t sew on the bias strip? OR am I supposed to sew on the strip then trim?

    I think I’d better type up the whole instructions for the neck edge/bias strip:

    “Fold bias strip in half lengthwise, wrong side facing in. Press. Trim allowance on neck edge to 3/8” (1cm) wide.

    Finish back edges of yoke. Turn allowances on these edges to outside and pin. Baste bias strip to neck edge, right sides facing, with open edges lying on allowance. Stitch bias strip to neck edge with 3/8″ (1cm) wide seam. Trim seam allowances and clip curves.

    Turn bias strip and allowances on back edges to inside, baste, and press. Topstitch 1/4″ (0.7cm) from neck edge, thereby catching the bias strip.”

    I’ve done with folding bias strip in half… but still not sure how I am supposed to do the ‘finish back edges of yoke’ – will just do “clean finish” with this one and hopefully that will do the trick. Before doing this, I’ve never heard of “finish” till I read the excellent book “The Sewing Book” by Alison Smith last night when I tried to work out what the instructions meant when they insisted on finishing the edges! :shy:

    Actually this is only third time I actually made something out of a pattern pack! So I am still a newbie trying to understand its language! 😆

    So give me heaps of explanations ok? :tup:

    Cheers with thanks! :hug:

    #418694
    darls
    Member

    Ah yes, noodle I am following its instruction to sew at 1.5cm seam allowance. So that means I need to trim the bias strip to 1 cm width or?? I am still not clear… :confused: 😆

    Be patient with me anyway I can be really a blonde sometimes! 😐

    Cheers! :hug:

    #418695
    Michelle-sm
    Member
    #418696
    darls
    Member

    Thanks Michelle – its similar to what I do with binding the quilts.

    It is just the only sentence that threw me off:

    “trim allowance on neck edge to 1cm wide”

    Does this means it refers to the bias strip or the actual neck area of the tunic dress?

    I also checked the length of the bias strip to the neck edge and it fits just right, so I should not need to trim the strip at all, right?

    Sighs, there are days when I wont mind attending sewing classes! :shrug:

    And thanks for the links – I love that black/olive dress of the Such Treasures…

    Cheers with thanks! :hug:

    #418697

    You have cut the neck edge and sewn it following the seam allowance on the pattern. Now you need to trim off material on the ‘waste’ side so that there is only 1 cm of material left. At present there is probably 1.5 cm. Once you have done that, the bias can be pinned and sewn in place.

    #418698
    sewing lady
    Member

    As Hillbilly girl says.

    #418699
    darls
    Member

    Thanks to all!

    Mum just got here and informed the same as hb… and asserted that it must be misprint.

    So guess I’ll just try and relax and attempt! 😆

    Thanks again! :hug:

    #418700
    Kasalia
    Member

    Most seams on patterns are 1.5cm and the reason why you have to trim necks and armholes to put bias binding on is so that the bias will actually fold over neatly when you then either hand sew or machine the bias to catch it down on the opposite side. Bias is also cut across the grain diagonally as this helps it to fold over around curves.

    Bias wont fold over a 1.5cm( unless its very wide,) which would look odd as most neck edges and armholes have a thin neat look.

    If you ever attempt a collar on a neckline you will also be asked to trim the seam, this helps the collar to sit flat .

    Good practice to make the same item again in different colour.

    Kasalia

    #418701

    The trick with sewing is to breathe deeply at intervals – I find it works every time. If all else fails, have a cuppa and think about something else entirely. When you go back to your work you will find your brain has worked it out for you …

    #418702
    darls
    Member

    hillbilly girl wrote:

    The trick with sewing is to breathe deeply at intervals – I find it works every time. If all else fails, have a cuppa and think about something else entirely. When you go back to your work you will find your brain has worked it out for you …

    Heh… that what I have done for 2 days and realised my brain refused to work! So thought ALS would come to resuce! 😆

    Thanks once again – havent tackled the dress yet as snowed under with chores and trying to settle a new puppy! Might try and finish it off by this weekend if puppy’s good and kids not sick! 😐

    Yeah mum had to explain how it all works and why, etc. So it make sense now – however still cannot understand why they need to do that in first place – :shrug: find a better way than confuse a poor sewing newbie with it while its labelled as “easy” pattern to work with…

    Still, a good way to learn ‘on the job’, eh?

    Thanks again – you’re all best! 😀

    Cheers! :hug:

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